Venezuelan Mantuano - '10/11
Flavor Profile
Flavor Profile
Criollo
"Mantuano" is on the Barlovento coast and is home of some of the nicest cocoa I have run across. These beans, not unlike the Patanemo, are from a set of valleys a little inland and this isolation is what I suspect contributes significantly to the special nature of this bean. Namely, it's very strong Criollo character and lineage. It has a very light break associate with many Criollo stocks.
As with most Criollo, don't expect heavy chocolate flavors here. Often people are disappointed when they first taste Criollo stock. They have their expectations so high that the subtle, delicate flavors are a let down. So keep that in mind. This is quite similar to the Patanemo, but has a slightly bolder chocolate flavor, and more of the strawberry and cream notes. There is nearly no astringency nor bitterness. At this point, words really start to fail me for tell you what to expect. There is a soft melange of flavors, but very little that dominate. Delicate nuts, light berry, the hint of the sea. And as I have come to expect with most Criollo I have seen the preparation is near perfect. A full, but not over full fermentation. Very nice flavor development. A paper thin husk that separates easily. A real joy to work with.
That then brings us to roasting. Mantuano Criollo really does not require and is actually hurt by a heavy roasting. You may lose some of the delicate highlight if roasted too far.
The oven roasting profile I have found to work is about 25 F cooler than most. You don't want to lose those delicate notes.
Pre-heat your oven to 325 F. Put a pound of beans into a heavy corning ware type container, about an inch deep. Put them in for 10 minutes, stirring at 5 minutes (and every 5 minutes after this). At 10 minutes, reduce the heat to 300 and roast another 10 minutes. Pull out a handful of beans for comparison. Turn off the oven and let the remaining beans set/roast for a final 10 minutes in the cooling oven. Remove them and let them cool. This should give you a nice light roasted bean. Compare the two sets and see what you think and adjust your roasting from there.
If roasting in a drum roaster, as I do, go for an ambient of about 270 F. Delicate. For about 15-20 minutes.
I have a number of bags of this, and will be offering it wholesale, but I don't know when or if I will have it again. So, don't let this pass you by if you have wanted to try a good Criollo chocolate. To repeat, don't set your expectations to brass band excitement. Think more sublime string quartet and you will be in more of a mindset to enjoy and appreciate what this bean has to offer.